I went out to dinner recently to celebrate a birthday, not mine, one a year is fine for me thank you very much. The meal was outstanding, the service was impeccable and the bread…well, stale and reheated to crisp it back up. But that’s another story. This story is about the dessert we had.
After a meal that ranked second only to my trip to Charlie Trotters kitchen (and I’m talking a table right in the kitchen) and perhaps too much wine from Chile that was too easy to drink, we were faced with the dessert menu. As a baker I find it my duty to order dessert, a responsibility even. I justify it as research, staying on top of the trend game, trying new and delicious combinations of foods and textures, and largely feeding my sugar addiction. The desserts available were honestly, not that trendy nor were they original; standards you would find at any kitchen that puts much more effort into their culinary offerings than their sweets. One I had tried on a previous visit, a caramel macadamia nut tart (bland), I rarely order crème brulee as I prefer my own and that left us with the cheese plate (really people, this is not dessert), chocolate cookie and mint ice cream sandwiches or the profiteroles with espresso ice cream. This decision was made carefully and scientifically; we sampled the ice creams. The espresso ice cream was out of this world, and the mint, while wonderfully minty, tasted earthy, like fresh mint in ice cream does.
The dessert was three profiteroles each the size of a large golf ball, filled with one perfect scoop of espresso ice cream. The three were topped with powdered sugar and the plate they sat on was drizzled with chocolate syrup. It was divine; the perfect finish to a perfect dinner. I would go back, and will, without a moment of hesitation. As for Charlie, I’ll go back there too, as soon as I can find someone else to spring for dinner!
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Sunday, April 18, 2010
Hmmm.....Donut's
I don’t eat them often, but there are few things that can inspire the kind of mouth watering the thought, or even better, smell of a warm donut. Honestly it doesn’t matter where I am or what kind of mood I am in; there isn’t much better than a donut, fresh from the fryer. The thought of biting into that donut; the soft crumb your teeth sink into, the warm glaze on your lips and the jam and sugar sticking to your fingers (sorry, we are imagining eating jelly donut’s here, my favorite). Donuts are comfort food but for the past few years they had been dropping to the way-side, consumers taking little notice of their childhood friend from the local coffee shop. Now slowly but surely we are seeing donuts creep back into the market place. From being seen on menu’s for brunch in replacement of French Toast and Pancakes or as baked or fried dessert bites served embellished in restaurants all the major cities the donut is versatile, has limitless flavor options and is… delicious.
Did you know National Donut day, June 5th? Donut’s even have their own day, that’s impressive. Whether talking about beignets, fried dough, or donuts, fry or bake up a bit of that sweet dough and you have a hit! Between yeasted or cake, plain or filled, oblong, round or “holes” if you just add a few seasonal flavors, and a dipping sauce and you have something that is good for any time of the day and any day of the year. Donuts are mostly consumed in the morning to meet the demand for freshness, but by adding some fun twists like fresh fruit or a vegetable puree (pumpkin) and some ganache on the side for dipping, the donut becomes a dessert that is really just timeless.
Nothing beats walking into a shop that makes donuts with the mixed scent of sugar, yeasted dough and frying oil in the air. Smells are a wonderful transporter to the past, even if it’s only the past of a few years ago in Georgia. My niece was brand new to the world, tiny with a crop of dark hair, kissy lips as I called them, and loud. My sister was showing me the area and we made an immediate detour ( including a u-turn) into a Krispy Crème upon seeing the light flash on for “Hot Donuts”. Smelling donuts reminds me of that sweet baby, warm sunshine and happiness. Eating donuts reminds me I need to get to the gym.
Did you know National Donut day, June 5th? Donut’s even have their own day, that’s impressive. Whether talking about beignets, fried dough, or donuts, fry or bake up a bit of that sweet dough and you have a hit! Between yeasted or cake, plain or filled, oblong, round or “holes” if you just add a few seasonal flavors, and a dipping sauce and you have something that is good for any time of the day and any day of the year. Donuts are mostly consumed in the morning to meet the demand for freshness, but by adding some fun twists like fresh fruit or a vegetable puree (pumpkin) and some ganache on the side for dipping, the donut becomes a dessert that is really just timeless.
Nothing beats walking into a shop that makes donuts with the mixed scent of sugar, yeasted dough and frying oil in the air. Smells are a wonderful transporter to the past, even if it’s only the past of a few years ago in Georgia. My niece was brand new to the world, tiny with a crop of dark hair, kissy lips as I called them, and loud. My sister was showing me the area and we made an immediate detour ( including a u-turn) into a Krispy Crème upon seeing the light flash on for “Hot Donuts”. Smelling donuts reminds me of that sweet baby, warm sunshine and happiness. Eating donuts reminds me I need to get to the gym.
Monday, April 12, 2010
My Love Affair with Bread
After writing about the 12 Steps of Baking bread, I got to thinking, what is it about bread that moves me? Which step is the one that draws me so irresistibly? It's a need, a yearning I have. I've always described my feelings about baking to people as it being something that always makes me feel better. If I'm sad, it makes me happy. If I'm mad, it settles me. If I'm already happy, well, I'm getting happier. I need to bake, but again, why? I'm afraid that sitting and thinking about baking hasn't helped much. Each time I go over the 12 steps my favorite step changes.
Right now, as I write this, my favorite part about baking bread is when I finally pull the loaf out of the oven. This is odd seeing as after nearly 7 years, I still have to really concentrate on not burning my arms. You would think after enough time, you would have enough precision to stop dropping or bumping your skin again searing stone or metal, but no. Not me. I must have what I can only really describe as something like magnets in my forearms and hands that are desperately drawn to hot surfaces. Regardless, pulling a beautiful two pound country loaf out of the oven, feeling the hot crust, hearing the crust of the bread crackle as retrogradation (staling) sets in and most importantly, smelling that wonderful, intoxicating aroma of freshly baked bread. Yes, that has to be the best part of baking bread.
Unless of course it's having a mass of freshly mixed dough on the table, waiting to be scaled. I am drawn to the sensation of the feel of dough sticky, lumpy with inclusions or smooth and silky in my hands. I am lured by the smell of the activity of the yeast, alive and harvesting food vigorously producing ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide invisibly while I work the scale. Clinging to my hands and resting on the table, the dough performs magic. This bulk of water, flour, salt and yeast poured out onto a floured table growing and expanding as it waits for division. Yes, this is my favorite part, knowing I am working with a living product, one that requires perfect timing, just the right touch and is dependent on temperature and attention. The one where I shape the loaves under my hands, carefully molding, applying pressure and waiting.
Although, I have to say I love the order involved in pre-scaling ingredients. The detail of individual containers full of separate ingredients, not yet ready to be mixed. The double checking the formula and checking off each item as it is gathered and measured. The precision of a gram scale, the heft of buckets of water and the poof of flour that escapes the brown kraft 50 pound bag as I pull the string to open the top of the sewn bag. And then, combing all the individual parts, in just the right order, at just the right time to produce one large dough from the slopping mess of singular sensations. I like order, I like making lists and crossing things off of them, I like how a group of nothings can become something. Scaling and mixing could definitely be my favorite part of making bread.
But, the more I sit and think about it, maybe I am overlooking the obvious. After going through all the careful steps of making bread, I'm sure my favorite part is the last part; when finally cool, drawing a knife through the crispy crust, feeling the gelatinized starches give way and slicing myself a piece of fresh bread; faintly warm, a heavy cream color and a nice open crumb that is all at once chewy and crunchy and perfect.
Maybe my favorite part is how bread brings people together, is a perfect pairing to just about anything and has played such an enormous role in the history of all cultures. I give up. I guess my favorite step is whatever is occupying my hands at the moment. I love them all.
Right now, as I write this, my favorite part about baking bread is when I finally pull the loaf out of the oven. This is odd seeing as after nearly 7 years, I still have to really concentrate on not burning my arms. You would think after enough time, you would have enough precision to stop dropping or bumping your skin again searing stone or metal, but no. Not me. I must have what I can only really describe as something like magnets in my forearms and hands that are desperately drawn to hot surfaces. Regardless, pulling a beautiful two pound country loaf out of the oven, feeling the hot crust, hearing the crust of the bread crackle as retrogradation (staling) sets in and most importantly, smelling that wonderful, intoxicating aroma of freshly baked bread. Yes, that has to be the best part of baking bread.
Unless of course it's having a mass of freshly mixed dough on the table, waiting to be scaled. I am drawn to the sensation of the feel of dough sticky, lumpy with inclusions or smooth and silky in my hands. I am lured by the smell of the activity of the yeast, alive and harvesting food vigorously producing ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide invisibly while I work the scale. Clinging to my hands and resting on the table, the dough performs magic. This bulk of water, flour, salt and yeast poured out onto a floured table growing and expanding as it waits for division. Yes, this is my favorite part, knowing I am working with a living product, one that requires perfect timing, just the right touch and is dependent on temperature and attention. The one where I shape the loaves under my hands, carefully molding, applying pressure and waiting.
Although, I have to say I love the order involved in pre-scaling ingredients. The detail of individual containers full of separate ingredients, not yet ready to be mixed. The double checking the formula and checking off each item as it is gathered and measured. The precision of a gram scale, the heft of buckets of water and the poof of flour that escapes the brown kraft 50 pound bag as I pull the string to open the top of the sewn bag. And then, combing all the individual parts, in just the right order, at just the right time to produce one large dough from the slopping mess of singular sensations. I like order, I like making lists and crossing things off of them, I like how a group of nothings can become something. Scaling and mixing could definitely be my favorite part of making bread.
But, the more I sit and think about it, maybe I am overlooking the obvious. After going through all the careful steps of making bread, I'm sure my favorite part is the last part; when finally cool, drawing a knife through the crispy crust, feeling the gelatinized starches give way and slicing myself a piece of fresh bread; faintly warm, a heavy cream color and a nice open crumb that is all at once chewy and crunchy and perfect.
Maybe my favorite part is how bread brings people together, is a perfect pairing to just about anything and has played such an enormous role in the history of all cultures. I give up. I guess my favorite step is whatever is occupying my hands at the moment. I love them all.
Friday, April 9, 2010
The 12 Steps of Baking and Some Other Useful Knowledge
While anyone can open up a cookbook and begin baking, if it’s a good loaf of bread you are after, there a few things a serious baker should first understand. Bread has its own set of rules; the dough becomes the authority and the baker, the student, no matter how skilled.
Let’s begin with yeast, the life of the dough. Yeast is hungry. Yeast is greedy. Yeast will eat itself...to death. As long as there is a food source available, yeast goes the distance and if given the opportunity will over-consume and die (similar to a chemical leavener burning out). Not good, as dead yeast means a fermented taste, a loaf that gets no oven spring, and doughy, heavy bread. But when not committing organism suicide, yeast is actually rather durable. In an unbaked mass of dough in a refrigerator/retarder, the activity of the yeast will slow down dramatically due to temperature, but not completely stop. Yeast can function down to 35°- 40° F. During this chilly time the yeast now slowly eats the food that the dough supplies in the form of fermentable sugars, simple starches and salt. As the yeast eats (at any temperature) it produces a byproduct of ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide gas, which provide the fermentation that we so desire when proofing and baking bread.
When the food supply runs out the yeast cells stop eating and the fermentation slows down. The yeast has stopped eating because it has exhausted its food source, not because it is full. The yeast dies out, the dough is sticky and fermented and nobody is happy.
Now with this basic knowledge let us move on to some more very important information for any baker, or anyone interested in becoming one...The 12 Steps of Baking. These steps outline the basic process of creating a beautiful, well handled loaf of bread.
The 12 Steps of Baking
1. Scaling Ingredients – Precise measurements for accuracy of formula, fermentation and flavor. Baking is a science!
2. Mixing Ingredients – To incorporate ingredients and develop gluten without oxidizing the dough.
3. Bulk Fermentation – One large mass of properly mixed dough rests. During this time the yeast feeds on the available fermentable sugars and simple starches and produces the byproducts alcohol and carbon dioxide gas.
4. Folding Over – The mass of dough is folded on itself to equalize the temperature, develop gluten, and redistribute food for the yeast.
5. Divide – The dough is scaled into equal weights to ensure even baking. Keep it covered!
6. Pre-Shaping – Regrouping the scaled dough pieces to seal in carbon dioxide gas, and make it easier to put into the final shape.
7. Bench Rest – Allows the gluten to relax to make final shaping easier.
8. Shaping – Molding of dough for consistency, even bake time and attractive presentation.
9. Final Fermentation – Last chance for fermentation and crumb development, and equalizes oven spring.
10. Scoring – Allows the release of gas, increases eye appeal, allows for loaf identification, adds crispness and texture to crust and can be used as a baker’s signature.
11. Baking – Expansion as a result of the activity of the yeast in the form of gasses and alcohol rush toward the surface of the dough causing it to grow in size. This is known as oven spring. Yeast cells die (120°F), the proteins gelatinize and the crust develops.
12. Cooling – As soon as bread is removed from the oven, it should be placed on a vented cooling rack so it doesn’t get soggy.
Knowing this information proves especially useful in understanding how skipping steps, or going out of order in the 12 steps can cause problems with the final products. For example if a baker was to take a piece of dough that was shaped and in the final fermentation step (step nine) and then reshaped it, this action would bring the dough back between the pre-shape and bench rest steps (steps six-seven). Reshaping the dough will de-gas it and the reshaping will also act as an additional fold in the dough. From step four above, we know folding dough will provide new food sources for the yeast and increase fermentation activity, on top of what has already taken place. Although most of the carbon dioxide gas will have been released in reshaping the dough, the taste and scent of the ethyl alcohol byproduct will remain and now intensify. The strength of the gluten will increase and toughen the crumb and the loaf of bread will have to begin proofing all over again. The over worked loaf may proof faster and higher and even achieve better oven spring due to the increased yeast activity, but also due to that activity there will be undesirable smell of alcohol, the taste of fermentation and a tough crumb. Essentially feeding yeast too much is like feeding a goldfish too much. In both cases, the final result will go down the toilet.
Armed with the 12 Steps of Baking, a baker can more easily understand the timely process of bread baking. One of the greatest achievements of baking is to be able to work with a living product, appreciate it and rise (oh yes, intended) to the challenge everyday, knowing that any little change in temperature, humidity, or the mixing of the dough will complicate that day’s bake. That is one of the best parts of baking, a new challenge everyday. Never boring, never the same.
Let’s begin with yeast, the life of the dough. Yeast is hungry. Yeast is greedy. Yeast will eat itself...to death. As long as there is a food source available, yeast goes the distance and if given the opportunity will over-consume and die (similar to a chemical leavener burning out). Not good, as dead yeast means a fermented taste, a loaf that gets no oven spring, and doughy, heavy bread. But when not committing organism suicide, yeast is actually rather durable. In an unbaked mass of dough in a refrigerator/retarder, the activity of the yeast will slow down dramatically due to temperature, but not completely stop. Yeast can function down to 35°- 40° F. During this chilly time the yeast now slowly eats the food that the dough supplies in the form of fermentable sugars, simple starches and salt. As the yeast eats (at any temperature) it produces a byproduct of ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide gas, which provide the fermentation that we so desire when proofing and baking bread.
When the food supply runs out the yeast cells stop eating and the fermentation slows down. The yeast has stopped eating because it has exhausted its food source, not because it is full. The yeast dies out, the dough is sticky and fermented and nobody is happy.
Now with this basic knowledge let us move on to some more very important information for any baker, or anyone interested in becoming one...The 12 Steps of Baking. These steps outline the basic process of creating a beautiful, well handled loaf of bread.
The 12 Steps of Baking
1. Scaling Ingredients – Precise measurements for accuracy of formula, fermentation and flavor. Baking is a science!
2. Mixing Ingredients – To incorporate ingredients and develop gluten without oxidizing the dough.
3. Bulk Fermentation – One large mass of properly mixed dough rests. During this time the yeast feeds on the available fermentable sugars and simple starches and produces the byproducts alcohol and carbon dioxide gas.
4. Folding Over – The mass of dough is folded on itself to equalize the temperature, develop gluten, and redistribute food for the yeast.
5. Divide – The dough is scaled into equal weights to ensure even baking. Keep it covered!
6. Pre-Shaping – Regrouping the scaled dough pieces to seal in carbon dioxide gas, and make it easier to put into the final shape.
7. Bench Rest – Allows the gluten to relax to make final shaping easier.
8. Shaping – Molding of dough for consistency, even bake time and attractive presentation.
9. Final Fermentation – Last chance for fermentation and crumb development, and equalizes oven spring.
10. Scoring – Allows the release of gas, increases eye appeal, allows for loaf identification, adds crispness and texture to crust and can be used as a baker’s signature.
11. Baking – Expansion as a result of the activity of the yeast in the form of gasses and alcohol rush toward the surface of the dough causing it to grow in size. This is known as oven spring. Yeast cells die (120°F), the proteins gelatinize and the crust develops.
12. Cooling – As soon as bread is removed from the oven, it should be placed on a vented cooling rack so it doesn’t get soggy.
Knowing this information proves especially useful in understanding how skipping steps, or going out of order in the 12 steps can cause problems with the final products. For example if a baker was to take a piece of dough that was shaped and in the final fermentation step (step nine) and then reshaped it, this action would bring the dough back between the pre-shape and bench rest steps (steps six-seven). Reshaping the dough will de-gas it and the reshaping will also act as an additional fold in the dough. From step four above, we know folding dough will provide new food sources for the yeast and increase fermentation activity, on top of what has already taken place. Although most of the carbon dioxide gas will have been released in reshaping the dough, the taste and scent of the ethyl alcohol byproduct will remain and now intensify. The strength of the gluten will increase and toughen the crumb and the loaf of bread will have to begin proofing all over again. The over worked loaf may proof faster and higher and even achieve better oven spring due to the increased yeast activity, but also due to that activity there will be undesirable smell of alcohol, the taste of fermentation and a tough crumb. Essentially feeding yeast too much is like feeding a goldfish too much. In both cases, the final result will go down the toilet.
Armed with the 12 Steps of Baking, a baker can more easily understand the timely process of bread baking. One of the greatest achievements of baking is to be able to work with a living product, appreciate it and rise (oh yes, intended) to the challenge everyday, knowing that any little change in temperature, humidity, or the mixing of the dough will complicate that day’s bake. That is one of the best parts of baking, a new challenge everyday. Never boring, never the same.
Thursday, April 8, 2010
Yesterday I tasted Summer
I wrote this last summer sitting in my Providence condo, watching the summer sun quickly turn to fall, without stopping. Summer doesn't last long in New England, you embrace every little piece of it you can.
Yesterday, I tasted summer. At last. It is August after all. In running late for work, I decided to make a protein shake for breakfast so I could “eat” in the car. I make my shakes with yogurt, protein powder, a little OJ and fruit. I had blueberries and a peach, excellent combination. My peach had a spot of mold on it. I cut the chunk of mold off, being careful not to cut too deep or too wide into the flesh, knowing the peach I enjoyed the day before from the same pile at the grocery store was delicious. The blueberries were perfect.
I roughly cut half of the peach into the blender, added the rest of the ingredients, pureed and poured it into my portable container then headed down the three flights of stairs to my car. The shake tasted mostly of sweet blueberries with a fleeting hint of peach. It was still delicious to drink because of the bright berry flavor mixed with the orange juice, the creaminess and slight tang of the Greek yogurt was just perceptible. The protein powder was, as always, undetectable. My breakfast over the steering wheel tasted like sweet sunshine.
When I returned home, I removed the other half of the peach from the fridge to let it come to temperature figuring it would be my dessert. After a complicated preparation of dinner (bowl, spoon, cereal box and skim milk), I sat down to one of my very favorite things to eat, having missed my daily dose of cereal at breakfast. My night carried on as usual and I was unaware that the best part of my day was yet to happen. Shortly before climbing into bed, I took my peach out the condensation covered Zip-Loc bag, grabbed a paper towel and dropped down on my couch for a quick snack before succumbing to slumber.
The fuzz on the bottom of the peach was soft on my finger tips as I brought the remaining half of the sunset red peach to my mouth. Being completely room temperature now I could smell the warm sweetness in the air and see the shimmering nectar glistening on the cut flesh. As my teeth sank into the fruit the flavors exploded into my mouth and dripped down my chin. It was juicy peach heaven. It tasted like a childhood summer; pure, all natural, no artificial flavors added summer. It was fresh cut grass, Slip ‘N’ Slides, bare feet and swimming pools. It was sunshine, picnic tables and my Grandpa laughing. It was pure delight. It was long overdue. In my opinion Rhode Island has an overabundance of winter and seems to be very much lacking summer, so I will take it in any way I can! Today, as I type this, it is 60° and raining. Time for another peach.
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