I'm a vivid dreamer. Always have been, which is the very reason why I don't, or rather can't watch scary movies. They stay with me and then seem to emulate in my head while I sleep. Rude.
Fortunately, last night's dream wasn't scary. It was delicious. Since moving down south to the Mid-Atlantic region of this grand country, I have become obsessed with the fast food chain Chick-Fil-A. I love them. Enough to dream of them apparently. In my dream last night, while I was chomping away at my grilled chicken sammie, I looked down and another one magically appeared. Complete with multiple packs of barbecue sauce, my preferred condiment. I was thrilled. I picked up the new sandwich and started in on it (clearly I was rather hungry) and low and behold, another appeared. This time in a gold wrapper, and again complete with way too many small tubs of sauce. I don't think I need to tell you this just went on and on. It was the luckiest day ever.
If you aren't familiar with the chain, the chicken sandwich is really fantastic. The first time I went, my sister was expressing this very same view point and I couldn't understand how someone could get so worked up or a pressed chicken patty from a fast food chain. Well, let me tell you, I understand now. The chicken isn't pressed, it's great. All white meat, nicely grilled and never, ever have I gotten one of those horrible "nubbies" as I like to call them; tendons, veins...what have you, I'm not sure, but the meat is edible and real. Each sandwich comes with a whole wheat bun, some too large pieces of crisp lettuce, a slice of red tomato, not green or yellow or under-ripe, but red, juicy and delicious and there are a variety of sauces for a topping. The house sauce doesn't mess around, I highly recommend it, I just happen to be someone who loves the tang and vinegar pucker of barbecue. And, FYI as a precautionary measure, extra napkins are a must as eating this deliciousness can not be done without it dripping onto your hands, and if you are like me, down your arms.
Thinking about this dream, my questions are this. 1.)Where was my large diet lemonade? I don't even go near that restaurant without acquiring one of those. 2.)How on earth was I eating so many grilled chicken sandwiches? These aren't slider size, they are the real deal and 3.)Did I get an icedream cone when I was done, because really, if there is no ice cream (icedream at the good ol' Chick-Fil-A) then what is the point? The gold wrapper...I'm just going to assume I was lucky.
In conclusion, I believe what this dream was trying to tell me was to go to Chick-Fil-A. Clearly it's the stuff dreams are made of. I'll be there for lunch today making them come true!
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Monday, June 28, 2010
Sometimes You Feel Like A...
I wrote this for a company newsletter.
In 2003 information was released as a qualified health claim, that nuts are good for the heart. Good news for those small gems that so often get an undeserved bad reputation as high fat diet busters and worse…deadly! And while any food can be an allergen, nuts and for the most part the peanut, take the brunt of the blame. But 2003 was years ago. So what is the new news on nuts? Well they are still high in fat and still potentially deadly but they are still good for you and now also have a laundry list of healthy benefits as well.
We were told in 2003 that 1.5 ounces of nuts added to our daily (low in saturated fat and cholesterol) diet can reduce the risk of heart disease. And then in 2008 the September edition of Journal of Nutrition told us that eating tree nuts five times a week can do that and also help with weight management, satiety as well as controlling diabetes. Things are looking up for the nut. To keep boosting that nutty ego, eating nuts is a great way to obtain an all natural source of a slew of vitamins as well as selenium, folate and choline. And as long as eaten in moderation and unsalted, nuts are a great addition to your diet each type touting its own strengths, so go ahead…get nutty.
Almonds - It was recently identified by The Institute of Food Research, that almonds have potential prebiotic properties that increase the levels of particular beneficial belly bacteria. Almonds are also your best source for fiber in the tree nut category.
Brazils - While not the most popular nut choice (although one of my personal favorites), one Brazil nut provides the daily recommended amount of selenium. Just one nut…amazing! What is selenium? Just in case anyone else didn’t know either selenium has antioxidant properties which help prevent cellular damage from free radicals. http://dietary-supplements.info.nih.gov/factsheets/selenium.asp) A further note…you don’t actually need too much of this mineral as it can have negative effects on cholesterol levels. So pop a Brazil nut, not a supplement, and you are set for the day.
Cashews – This favorite is an excellent source of protein and fiber and is rich in mono-unsaturated fat. These nuts are also a good source of potassium, B Vitamins and folate.
Hazelnuts – Growing in popularity and for good reason, this delicious nut also known as the filbert are your best source for proanthocyanidins (PAC) as long as you eat them with the skins on. (Another one I don’t know…but according to Nutrition Science News, PAC’s are flavonoids, and in so many words the super fruit of antioxidants. They are known to have antioxidant capabilities 20 times more powerful than Vitamin C and 50 times more powerful than Vitamin E.)
Macadamia’s – Raw, roasted, salted…I’ll take a macadamia nut anyway it is given to me. While these guys are the highest in fat (boo!!), they are also the highest in mono-unsaturated fat, the good heart healthy fats (yea??).
Pecans – Naturally sodium free they can play a part in preventing coronary heart disease and gallstones. They may be so tasty because of all the nuts they come up second in the amount of fat per serving, 20 grams per ounce compared to macadamia’s 22 grams and pistachio’s with the lowest at 13 grams per ounce.
Peanuts – The step child of the nut family, because well it’s a legume. But it’s so similar to nuts in all its properties it is often guilty by association, plus the name doesn’t help much. Peanuts are the “nut” with the highest amount of protein per serving. It also boasts a low glycemic index which can help manage blood sugar levels.
Pistachios – Another nut favorable to preventing type 2 diabetes. These nuts are also a good source of plant sterols which aid in immunity.
Walnuts – It has been shown that omega 3’s in walnuts can promote bone health, assist in weight and diabetes management as well as reduce breast tumor growth and enhance cognitive and motor function. Smart nut.
With health issues being more publicized and people becoming more involved in what they eat, (or read on ingredient labels) the growing trend towards gluten free and special dietary issues has led to an increase in the demand for nuts. Nuts and seeds are being used in different ways and we all are benefiting. For example sunflower seed butter is amazing with fantastic taste and texture and is as yummy as peanut butter. It’s slightly sweeter and unfortunately more expensive, but worth it if peanuts aren’t welcome. Sunflower seeds possess many of the same benefits as tree nuts –good fat, high protein and fiber, and minerals. They have been also shown to fight against cardiovascular disease.
Your take away from all of this? Next time someone says “you’re nuts”, thank them. It could definitely be a compliment.
In 2003 information was released as a qualified health claim, that nuts are good for the heart. Good news for those small gems that so often get an undeserved bad reputation as high fat diet busters and worse…deadly! And while any food can be an allergen, nuts and for the most part the peanut, take the brunt of the blame. But 2003 was years ago. So what is the new news on nuts? Well they are still high in fat and still potentially deadly but they are still good for you and now also have a laundry list of healthy benefits as well.
We were told in 2003 that 1.5 ounces of nuts added to our daily (low in saturated fat and cholesterol) diet can reduce the risk of heart disease. And then in 2008 the September edition of Journal of Nutrition told us that eating tree nuts five times a week can do that and also help with weight management, satiety as well as controlling diabetes. Things are looking up for the nut. To keep boosting that nutty ego, eating nuts is a great way to obtain an all natural source of a slew of vitamins as well as selenium, folate and choline. And as long as eaten in moderation and unsalted, nuts are a great addition to your diet each type touting its own strengths, so go ahead…get nutty.
Almonds - It was recently identified by The Institute of Food Research, that almonds have potential prebiotic properties that increase the levels of particular beneficial belly bacteria. Almonds are also your best source for fiber in the tree nut category.
Brazils - While not the most popular nut choice (although one of my personal favorites), one Brazil nut provides the daily recommended amount of selenium. Just one nut…amazing! What is selenium? Just in case anyone else didn’t know either selenium has antioxidant properties which help prevent cellular damage from free radicals. http://dietary-supplements.info.nih.gov/factsheets/selenium.asp) A further note…you don’t actually need too much of this mineral as it can have negative effects on cholesterol levels. So pop a Brazil nut, not a supplement, and you are set for the day.
Cashews – This favorite is an excellent source of protein and fiber and is rich in mono-unsaturated fat. These nuts are also a good source of potassium, B Vitamins and folate.
Hazelnuts – Growing in popularity and for good reason, this delicious nut also known as the filbert are your best source for proanthocyanidins (PAC) as long as you eat them with the skins on. (Another one I don’t know…but according to Nutrition Science News, PAC’s are flavonoids, and in so many words the super fruit of antioxidants. They are known to have antioxidant capabilities 20 times more powerful than Vitamin C and 50 times more powerful than Vitamin E.)
Macadamia’s – Raw, roasted, salted…I’ll take a macadamia nut anyway it is given to me. While these guys are the highest in fat (boo!!), they are also the highest in mono-unsaturated fat, the good heart healthy fats (yea??).
Pecans – Naturally sodium free they can play a part in preventing coronary heart disease and gallstones. They may be so tasty because of all the nuts they come up second in the amount of fat per serving, 20 grams per ounce compared to macadamia’s 22 grams and pistachio’s with the lowest at 13 grams per ounce.
Peanuts – The step child of the nut family, because well it’s a legume. But it’s so similar to nuts in all its properties it is often guilty by association, plus the name doesn’t help much. Peanuts are the “nut” with the highest amount of protein per serving. It also boasts a low glycemic index which can help manage blood sugar levels.
Pistachios – Another nut favorable to preventing type 2 diabetes. These nuts are also a good source of plant sterols which aid in immunity.
Walnuts – It has been shown that omega 3’s in walnuts can promote bone health, assist in weight and diabetes management as well as reduce breast tumor growth and enhance cognitive and motor function. Smart nut.
With health issues being more publicized and people becoming more involved in what they eat, (or read on ingredient labels) the growing trend towards gluten free and special dietary issues has led to an increase in the demand for nuts. Nuts and seeds are being used in different ways and we all are benefiting. For example sunflower seed butter is amazing with fantastic taste and texture and is as yummy as peanut butter. It’s slightly sweeter and unfortunately more expensive, but worth it if peanuts aren’t welcome. Sunflower seeds possess many of the same benefits as tree nuts –good fat, high protein and fiber, and minerals. They have been also shown to fight against cardiovascular disease.
Your take away from all of this? Next time someone says “you’re nuts”, thank them. It could definitely be a compliment.
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
Master Baker?
I forgot I wrote this a few weeks ago. I was taking a break from work, and under the guise of doing e-mail, started jotting down some notes.
It is ten of three in the morning. I’m sitting in a great German bakery in Durham, NC with three Germans, chatting away about who knows what. Well, I suspect I know partially of what they speak, as the name of my alma mater pops up and then some laughter. They are three master bakers; German master bakers at that. Not the Americanized test which is only a fraction of the difficulty of the test they took and passed. They are the real European bakers who begin their career at age 7, working in their family bakery and then apprenticing throughout Europe mastering the craft of bread. The three here with me range in age from early 20’s to early 40’s. Three different stages of their careers but all advanced enough to chuckle at me as I shape bread, one sad loaf at a time.
It makes me think…I attended the best possible culinary school I could go to, but how much can a person really learn about a subject in a three week block system with 18 to 20 other class mates? By the time you get a feel for what you are doing, you move on. You may revisit a subject in another few months but at that point, after three other three week classes, you are only marginally better at shaping bread than you were the first time around. And, after the proud day of graduation and being sent out into the working world, it’s amazingly little you need to know about shaping bread, especially when machines are so quick and much more efficient. That was how I spent my last few years, only rarely doing a final shape by hand but having an automated system that produced more loaves in an hour than I could do in half a day.
The boys here are an interesting statement to me. All three came to visit the states, see a new part of the world, learn a new culture. Not one of them came here to learn how to bake. The few very talented Americans I know went to Europe to learn to bake after some form of education in the US. It was a time to travel and see Europe of course, but mostly to learn under the talent of the Germans, Swiss and French. This begs the question of what don’t we have here, that the Europeans have cornered? Is it because we are a young country? Is it our desire for efficiency that have us lacking the knowledge of working with artisan whole grain breads that take time and patience, the ones commonly found in old time bakeries overseas? Why is so much of the talent and knowledge across an ocean, were they not the ones who came to America and were our beginnings? Or is it our system of education where apprenticeships beginning in your young formative years just don't happen.
I’m not saying there aren’t amazingly talented bakers in the states. I know a few of them myself from my time at school and the networking that followed. I just think it’s interesting that each one of these men here bake circles around me. They ask me why I don’t use both hands at the same time? Well, first thought that comes to me is I can barely get both hands around the loaf I am working with, but that seems like a lousy excuse. When I use both hands, they turn out terrible...when I use both hands I slow down instead of speed up...there isn't the time to allow me to get used to it, we have production to do! I will chock it up to experience. In a bakery setting it comes down to use both hands or fall behind your schedule and have the rest of production suffer. I’ve never had that dilemma. And don't get me wrong, I’m unmistakably jealous. What are you 22 and a Master Baker? I’m 31 and I’m not a master of...I don't think anything!
It is ten of three in the morning. I’m sitting in a great German bakery in Durham, NC with three Germans, chatting away about who knows what. Well, I suspect I know partially of what they speak, as the name of my alma mater pops up and then some laughter. They are three master bakers; German master bakers at that. Not the Americanized test which is only a fraction of the difficulty of the test they took and passed. They are the real European bakers who begin their career at age 7, working in their family bakery and then apprenticing throughout Europe mastering the craft of bread. The three here with me range in age from early 20’s to early 40’s. Three different stages of their careers but all advanced enough to chuckle at me as I shape bread, one sad loaf at a time.
It makes me think…I attended the best possible culinary school I could go to, but how much can a person really learn about a subject in a three week block system with 18 to 20 other class mates? By the time you get a feel for what you are doing, you move on. You may revisit a subject in another few months but at that point, after three other three week classes, you are only marginally better at shaping bread than you were the first time around. And, after the proud day of graduation and being sent out into the working world, it’s amazingly little you need to know about shaping bread, especially when machines are so quick and much more efficient. That was how I spent my last few years, only rarely doing a final shape by hand but having an automated system that produced more loaves in an hour than I could do in half a day.
The boys here are an interesting statement to me. All three came to visit the states, see a new part of the world, learn a new culture. Not one of them came here to learn how to bake. The few very talented Americans I know went to Europe to learn to bake after some form of education in the US. It was a time to travel and see Europe of course, but mostly to learn under the talent of the Germans, Swiss and French. This begs the question of what don’t we have here, that the Europeans have cornered? Is it because we are a young country? Is it our desire for efficiency that have us lacking the knowledge of working with artisan whole grain breads that take time and patience, the ones commonly found in old time bakeries overseas? Why is so much of the talent and knowledge across an ocean, were they not the ones who came to America and were our beginnings? Or is it our system of education where apprenticeships beginning in your young formative years just don't happen.
I’m not saying there aren’t amazingly talented bakers in the states. I know a few of them myself from my time at school and the networking that followed. I just think it’s interesting that each one of these men here bake circles around me. They ask me why I don’t use both hands at the same time? Well, first thought that comes to me is I can barely get both hands around the loaf I am working with, but that seems like a lousy excuse. When I use both hands, they turn out terrible...when I use both hands I slow down instead of speed up...there isn't the time to allow me to get used to it, we have production to do! I will chock it up to experience. In a bakery setting it comes down to use both hands or fall behind your schedule and have the rest of production suffer. I’ve never had that dilemma. And don't get me wrong, I’m unmistakably jealous. What are you 22 and a Master Baker? I’m 31 and I’m not a master of...I don't think anything!
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Trendy
Time flies. They tell you as you get older it will go faster and they were right as it is now 2010, and the beginning of a new decade. So what’s on the horizon this year? I looked at a few different websites to find that out. There are many opinions and a few commonalities.
It seems consumers are finally speaking up and voicing their concerns and demands. With the introduction of the Food Network came new learning’s hidden talent and the now the foodie is not a person who is a food snob, but a person who likes and appreciates food. Learning about food is easier than ever. It is hard NOT to be a foodie!
Allergens, or going without them is becoming more standard on menus. The number of people looking for food free of allergens ranges from eggs to soy to dairy. Of the up and coming allergens, gluten seems to be leading the contest in causing health issues. Now personally I am very partial to gluten but there are some who have no choice. I’ve found that cookies and cakes can be almost as good and if necessary a pretty darn good alternative.
Another popular trend is the demand for clean labels. Ingredients consumers aren’t familiar with are now reason not to purchase familiar items. Clean labels are a huge push for 2010. The disconcerting consumer has taken an interest in avoiding anything “artificial”.
As I was researching, functional food and healthy eating kept popping up. It seems high fiber and high protein is a new diet trend. Super foods are still hot items for the nutrients they provide and the new buzzword is bioavailability which means how quickly something is available for use in the body after being absorbed or digested. Eating meals of a more vegetarian variety will be part of this movement which means more beans and whole grains.
And the last hot trend worth mentioning is in the dessert category. One of the new hot desserts this year will be whoppie pies. Nostalgia! The sandwich or pie crust of the whoppie pie is made with thin cakes and the filling is anything from cream cheese frosting, to whipped cream to buttercream. I’ve seen strawberry whoppie pies, chocolate, pumpkin, vanilla and lemon. Another dessert trend for this year is butterscotch. All I’ll say about that is blondies…macadamia nuts, some bittersweet chocolate and loads of butterscotch chips. This is just a few off the top, the few that stand out and I am seeing in my professional and personal life. Let me know if you see others worth mentioning, have tried anything new and great or new and well…less great. I’d love to hear!
It seems consumers are finally speaking up and voicing their concerns and demands. With the introduction of the Food Network came new learning’s hidden talent and the now the foodie is not a person who is a food snob, but a person who likes and appreciates food. Learning about food is easier than ever. It is hard NOT to be a foodie!
Allergens, or going without them is becoming more standard on menus. The number of people looking for food free of allergens ranges from eggs to soy to dairy. Of the up and coming allergens, gluten seems to be leading the contest in causing health issues. Now personally I am very partial to gluten but there are some who have no choice. I’ve found that cookies and cakes can be almost as good and if necessary a pretty darn good alternative.
Another popular trend is the demand for clean labels. Ingredients consumers aren’t familiar with are now reason not to purchase familiar items. Clean labels are a huge push for 2010. The disconcerting consumer has taken an interest in avoiding anything “artificial”.
As I was researching, functional food and healthy eating kept popping up. It seems high fiber and high protein is a new diet trend. Super foods are still hot items for the nutrients they provide and the new buzzword is bioavailability which means how quickly something is available for use in the body after being absorbed or digested. Eating meals of a more vegetarian variety will be part of this movement which means more beans and whole grains.
And the last hot trend worth mentioning is in the dessert category. One of the new hot desserts this year will be whoppie pies. Nostalgia! The sandwich or pie crust of the whoppie pie is made with thin cakes and the filling is anything from cream cheese frosting, to whipped cream to buttercream. I’ve seen strawberry whoppie pies, chocolate, pumpkin, vanilla and lemon. Another dessert trend for this year is butterscotch. All I’ll say about that is blondies…macadamia nuts, some bittersweet chocolate and loads of butterscotch chips. This is just a few off the top, the few that stand out and I am seeing in my professional and personal life. Let me know if you see others worth mentioning, have tried anything new and great or new and well…less great. I’d love to hear!
Saturday, May 8, 2010
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Profiterols and Ice Cream
I went out to dinner recently to celebrate a birthday, not mine, one a year is fine for me thank you very much. The meal was outstanding, the service was impeccable and the bread…well, stale and reheated to crisp it back up. But that’s another story. This story is about the dessert we had.
After a meal that ranked second only to my trip to Charlie Trotters kitchen (and I’m talking a table right in the kitchen) and perhaps too much wine from Chile that was too easy to drink, we were faced with the dessert menu. As a baker I find it my duty to order dessert, a responsibility even. I justify it as research, staying on top of the trend game, trying new and delicious combinations of foods and textures, and largely feeding my sugar addiction. The desserts available were honestly, not that trendy nor were they original; standards you would find at any kitchen that puts much more effort into their culinary offerings than their sweets. One I had tried on a previous visit, a caramel macadamia nut tart (bland), I rarely order crème brulee as I prefer my own and that left us with the cheese plate (really people, this is not dessert), chocolate cookie and mint ice cream sandwiches or the profiteroles with espresso ice cream. This decision was made carefully and scientifically; we sampled the ice creams. The espresso ice cream was out of this world, and the mint, while wonderfully minty, tasted earthy, like fresh mint in ice cream does.
The dessert was three profiteroles each the size of a large golf ball, filled with one perfect scoop of espresso ice cream. The three were topped with powdered sugar and the plate they sat on was drizzled with chocolate syrup. It was divine; the perfect finish to a perfect dinner. I would go back, and will, without a moment of hesitation. As for Charlie, I’ll go back there too, as soon as I can find someone else to spring for dinner!
After a meal that ranked second only to my trip to Charlie Trotters kitchen (and I’m talking a table right in the kitchen) and perhaps too much wine from Chile that was too easy to drink, we were faced with the dessert menu. As a baker I find it my duty to order dessert, a responsibility even. I justify it as research, staying on top of the trend game, trying new and delicious combinations of foods and textures, and largely feeding my sugar addiction. The desserts available were honestly, not that trendy nor were they original; standards you would find at any kitchen that puts much more effort into their culinary offerings than their sweets. One I had tried on a previous visit, a caramel macadamia nut tart (bland), I rarely order crème brulee as I prefer my own and that left us with the cheese plate (really people, this is not dessert), chocolate cookie and mint ice cream sandwiches or the profiteroles with espresso ice cream. This decision was made carefully and scientifically; we sampled the ice creams. The espresso ice cream was out of this world, and the mint, while wonderfully minty, tasted earthy, like fresh mint in ice cream does.
The dessert was three profiteroles each the size of a large golf ball, filled with one perfect scoop of espresso ice cream. The three were topped with powdered sugar and the plate they sat on was drizzled with chocolate syrup. It was divine; the perfect finish to a perfect dinner. I would go back, and will, without a moment of hesitation. As for Charlie, I’ll go back there too, as soon as I can find someone else to spring for dinner!
Sunday, April 18, 2010
Hmmm.....Donut's
I don’t eat them often, but there are few things that can inspire the kind of mouth watering the thought, or even better, smell of a warm donut. Honestly it doesn’t matter where I am or what kind of mood I am in; there isn’t much better than a donut, fresh from the fryer. The thought of biting into that donut; the soft crumb your teeth sink into, the warm glaze on your lips and the jam and sugar sticking to your fingers (sorry, we are imagining eating jelly donut’s here, my favorite). Donuts are comfort food but for the past few years they had been dropping to the way-side, consumers taking little notice of their childhood friend from the local coffee shop. Now slowly but surely we are seeing donuts creep back into the market place. From being seen on menu’s for brunch in replacement of French Toast and Pancakes or as baked or fried dessert bites served embellished in restaurants all the major cities the donut is versatile, has limitless flavor options and is… delicious.
Did you know National Donut day, June 5th? Donut’s even have their own day, that’s impressive. Whether talking about beignets, fried dough, or donuts, fry or bake up a bit of that sweet dough and you have a hit! Between yeasted or cake, plain or filled, oblong, round or “holes” if you just add a few seasonal flavors, and a dipping sauce and you have something that is good for any time of the day and any day of the year. Donuts are mostly consumed in the morning to meet the demand for freshness, but by adding some fun twists like fresh fruit or a vegetable puree (pumpkin) and some ganache on the side for dipping, the donut becomes a dessert that is really just timeless.
Nothing beats walking into a shop that makes donuts with the mixed scent of sugar, yeasted dough and frying oil in the air. Smells are a wonderful transporter to the past, even if it’s only the past of a few years ago in Georgia. My niece was brand new to the world, tiny with a crop of dark hair, kissy lips as I called them, and loud. My sister was showing me the area and we made an immediate detour ( including a u-turn) into a Krispy Crème upon seeing the light flash on for “Hot Donuts”. Smelling donuts reminds me of that sweet baby, warm sunshine and happiness. Eating donuts reminds me I need to get to the gym.
Did you know National Donut day, June 5th? Donut’s even have their own day, that’s impressive. Whether talking about beignets, fried dough, or donuts, fry or bake up a bit of that sweet dough and you have a hit! Between yeasted or cake, plain or filled, oblong, round or “holes” if you just add a few seasonal flavors, and a dipping sauce and you have something that is good for any time of the day and any day of the year. Donuts are mostly consumed in the morning to meet the demand for freshness, but by adding some fun twists like fresh fruit or a vegetable puree (pumpkin) and some ganache on the side for dipping, the donut becomes a dessert that is really just timeless.
Nothing beats walking into a shop that makes donuts with the mixed scent of sugar, yeasted dough and frying oil in the air. Smells are a wonderful transporter to the past, even if it’s only the past of a few years ago in Georgia. My niece was brand new to the world, tiny with a crop of dark hair, kissy lips as I called them, and loud. My sister was showing me the area and we made an immediate detour ( including a u-turn) into a Krispy Crème upon seeing the light flash on for “Hot Donuts”. Smelling donuts reminds me of that sweet baby, warm sunshine and happiness. Eating donuts reminds me I need to get to the gym.
Monday, April 12, 2010
My Love Affair with Bread
After writing about the 12 Steps of Baking bread, I got to thinking, what is it about bread that moves me? Which step is the one that draws me so irresistibly? It's a need, a yearning I have. I've always described my feelings about baking to people as it being something that always makes me feel better. If I'm sad, it makes me happy. If I'm mad, it settles me. If I'm already happy, well, I'm getting happier. I need to bake, but again, why? I'm afraid that sitting and thinking about baking hasn't helped much. Each time I go over the 12 steps my favorite step changes.
Right now, as I write this, my favorite part about baking bread is when I finally pull the loaf out of the oven. This is odd seeing as after nearly 7 years, I still have to really concentrate on not burning my arms. You would think after enough time, you would have enough precision to stop dropping or bumping your skin again searing stone or metal, but no. Not me. I must have what I can only really describe as something like magnets in my forearms and hands that are desperately drawn to hot surfaces. Regardless, pulling a beautiful two pound country loaf out of the oven, feeling the hot crust, hearing the crust of the bread crackle as retrogradation (staling) sets in and most importantly, smelling that wonderful, intoxicating aroma of freshly baked bread. Yes, that has to be the best part of baking bread.
Unless of course it's having a mass of freshly mixed dough on the table, waiting to be scaled. I am drawn to the sensation of the feel of dough sticky, lumpy with inclusions or smooth and silky in my hands. I am lured by the smell of the activity of the yeast, alive and harvesting food vigorously producing ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide invisibly while I work the scale. Clinging to my hands and resting on the table, the dough performs magic. This bulk of water, flour, salt and yeast poured out onto a floured table growing and expanding as it waits for division. Yes, this is my favorite part, knowing I am working with a living product, one that requires perfect timing, just the right touch and is dependent on temperature and attention. The one where I shape the loaves under my hands, carefully molding, applying pressure and waiting.
Although, I have to say I love the order involved in pre-scaling ingredients. The detail of individual containers full of separate ingredients, not yet ready to be mixed. The double checking the formula and checking off each item as it is gathered and measured. The precision of a gram scale, the heft of buckets of water and the poof of flour that escapes the brown kraft 50 pound bag as I pull the string to open the top of the sewn bag. And then, combing all the individual parts, in just the right order, at just the right time to produce one large dough from the slopping mess of singular sensations. I like order, I like making lists and crossing things off of them, I like how a group of nothings can become something. Scaling and mixing could definitely be my favorite part of making bread.
But, the more I sit and think about it, maybe I am overlooking the obvious. After going through all the careful steps of making bread, I'm sure my favorite part is the last part; when finally cool, drawing a knife through the crispy crust, feeling the gelatinized starches give way and slicing myself a piece of fresh bread; faintly warm, a heavy cream color and a nice open crumb that is all at once chewy and crunchy and perfect.
Maybe my favorite part is how bread brings people together, is a perfect pairing to just about anything and has played such an enormous role in the history of all cultures. I give up. I guess my favorite step is whatever is occupying my hands at the moment. I love them all.
Right now, as I write this, my favorite part about baking bread is when I finally pull the loaf out of the oven. This is odd seeing as after nearly 7 years, I still have to really concentrate on not burning my arms. You would think after enough time, you would have enough precision to stop dropping or bumping your skin again searing stone or metal, but no. Not me. I must have what I can only really describe as something like magnets in my forearms and hands that are desperately drawn to hot surfaces. Regardless, pulling a beautiful two pound country loaf out of the oven, feeling the hot crust, hearing the crust of the bread crackle as retrogradation (staling) sets in and most importantly, smelling that wonderful, intoxicating aroma of freshly baked bread. Yes, that has to be the best part of baking bread.
Unless of course it's having a mass of freshly mixed dough on the table, waiting to be scaled. I am drawn to the sensation of the feel of dough sticky, lumpy with inclusions or smooth and silky in my hands. I am lured by the smell of the activity of the yeast, alive and harvesting food vigorously producing ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide invisibly while I work the scale. Clinging to my hands and resting on the table, the dough performs magic. This bulk of water, flour, salt and yeast poured out onto a floured table growing and expanding as it waits for division. Yes, this is my favorite part, knowing I am working with a living product, one that requires perfect timing, just the right touch and is dependent on temperature and attention. The one where I shape the loaves under my hands, carefully molding, applying pressure and waiting.
Although, I have to say I love the order involved in pre-scaling ingredients. The detail of individual containers full of separate ingredients, not yet ready to be mixed. The double checking the formula and checking off each item as it is gathered and measured. The precision of a gram scale, the heft of buckets of water and the poof of flour that escapes the brown kraft 50 pound bag as I pull the string to open the top of the sewn bag. And then, combing all the individual parts, in just the right order, at just the right time to produce one large dough from the slopping mess of singular sensations. I like order, I like making lists and crossing things off of them, I like how a group of nothings can become something. Scaling and mixing could definitely be my favorite part of making bread.
But, the more I sit and think about it, maybe I am overlooking the obvious. After going through all the careful steps of making bread, I'm sure my favorite part is the last part; when finally cool, drawing a knife through the crispy crust, feeling the gelatinized starches give way and slicing myself a piece of fresh bread; faintly warm, a heavy cream color and a nice open crumb that is all at once chewy and crunchy and perfect.
Maybe my favorite part is how bread brings people together, is a perfect pairing to just about anything and has played such an enormous role in the history of all cultures. I give up. I guess my favorite step is whatever is occupying my hands at the moment. I love them all.
Friday, April 9, 2010
The 12 Steps of Baking and Some Other Useful Knowledge
While anyone can open up a cookbook and begin baking, if it’s a good loaf of bread you are after, there a few things a serious baker should first understand. Bread has its own set of rules; the dough becomes the authority and the baker, the student, no matter how skilled.
Let’s begin with yeast, the life of the dough. Yeast is hungry. Yeast is greedy. Yeast will eat itself...to death. As long as there is a food source available, yeast goes the distance and if given the opportunity will over-consume and die (similar to a chemical leavener burning out). Not good, as dead yeast means a fermented taste, a loaf that gets no oven spring, and doughy, heavy bread. But when not committing organism suicide, yeast is actually rather durable. In an unbaked mass of dough in a refrigerator/retarder, the activity of the yeast will slow down dramatically due to temperature, but not completely stop. Yeast can function down to 35°- 40° F. During this chilly time the yeast now slowly eats the food that the dough supplies in the form of fermentable sugars, simple starches and salt. As the yeast eats (at any temperature) it produces a byproduct of ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide gas, which provide the fermentation that we so desire when proofing and baking bread.
When the food supply runs out the yeast cells stop eating and the fermentation slows down. The yeast has stopped eating because it has exhausted its food source, not because it is full. The yeast dies out, the dough is sticky and fermented and nobody is happy.
Now with this basic knowledge let us move on to some more very important information for any baker, or anyone interested in becoming one...The 12 Steps of Baking. These steps outline the basic process of creating a beautiful, well handled loaf of bread.
The 12 Steps of Baking
1. Scaling Ingredients – Precise measurements for accuracy of formula, fermentation and flavor. Baking is a science!
2. Mixing Ingredients – To incorporate ingredients and develop gluten without oxidizing the dough.
3. Bulk Fermentation – One large mass of properly mixed dough rests. During this time the yeast feeds on the available fermentable sugars and simple starches and produces the byproducts alcohol and carbon dioxide gas.
4. Folding Over – The mass of dough is folded on itself to equalize the temperature, develop gluten, and redistribute food for the yeast.
5. Divide – The dough is scaled into equal weights to ensure even baking. Keep it covered!
6. Pre-Shaping – Regrouping the scaled dough pieces to seal in carbon dioxide gas, and make it easier to put into the final shape.
7. Bench Rest – Allows the gluten to relax to make final shaping easier.
8. Shaping – Molding of dough for consistency, even bake time and attractive presentation.
9. Final Fermentation – Last chance for fermentation and crumb development, and equalizes oven spring.
10. Scoring – Allows the release of gas, increases eye appeal, allows for loaf identification, adds crispness and texture to crust and can be used as a baker’s signature.
11. Baking – Expansion as a result of the activity of the yeast in the form of gasses and alcohol rush toward the surface of the dough causing it to grow in size. This is known as oven spring. Yeast cells die (120°F), the proteins gelatinize and the crust develops.
12. Cooling – As soon as bread is removed from the oven, it should be placed on a vented cooling rack so it doesn’t get soggy.
Knowing this information proves especially useful in understanding how skipping steps, or going out of order in the 12 steps can cause problems with the final products. For example if a baker was to take a piece of dough that was shaped and in the final fermentation step (step nine) and then reshaped it, this action would bring the dough back between the pre-shape and bench rest steps (steps six-seven). Reshaping the dough will de-gas it and the reshaping will also act as an additional fold in the dough. From step four above, we know folding dough will provide new food sources for the yeast and increase fermentation activity, on top of what has already taken place. Although most of the carbon dioxide gas will have been released in reshaping the dough, the taste and scent of the ethyl alcohol byproduct will remain and now intensify. The strength of the gluten will increase and toughen the crumb and the loaf of bread will have to begin proofing all over again. The over worked loaf may proof faster and higher and even achieve better oven spring due to the increased yeast activity, but also due to that activity there will be undesirable smell of alcohol, the taste of fermentation and a tough crumb. Essentially feeding yeast too much is like feeding a goldfish too much. In both cases, the final result will go down the toilet.
Armed with the 12 Steps of Baking, a baker can more easily understand the timely process of bread baking. One of the greatest achievements of baking is to be able to work with a living product, appreciate it and rise (oh yes, intended) to the challenge everyday, knowing that any little change in temperature, humidity, or the mixing of the dough will complicate that day’s bake. That is one of the best parts of baking, a new challenge everyday. Never boring, never the same.
Let’s begin with yeast, the life of the dough. Yeast is hungry. Yeast is greedy. Yeast will eat itself...to death. As long as there is a food source available, yeast goes the distance and if given the opportunity will over-consume and die (similar to a chemical leavener burning out). Not good, as dead yeast means a fermented taste, a loaf that gets no oven spring, and doughy, heavy bread. But when not committing organism suicide, yeast is actually rather durable. In an unbaked mass of dough in a refrigerator/retarder, the activity of the yeast will slow down dramatically due to temperature, but not completely stop. Yeast can function down to 35°- 40° F. During this chilly time the yeast now slowly eats the food that the dough supplies in the form of fermentable sugars, simple starches and salt. As the yeast eats (at any temperature) it produces a byproduct of ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide gas, which provide the fermentation that we so desire when proofing and baking bread.
When the food supply runs out the yeast cells stop eating and the fermentation slows down. The yeast has stopped eating because it has exhausted its food source, not because it is full. The yeast dies out, the dough is sticky and fermented and nobody is happy.
Now with this basic knowledge let us move on to some more very important information for any baker, or anyone interested in becoming one...The 12 Steps of Baking. These steps outline the basic process of creating a beautiful, well handled loaf of bread.
The 12 Steps of Baking
1. Scaling Ingredients – Precise measurements for accuracy of formula, fermentation and flavor. Baking is a science!
2. Mixing Ingredients – To incorporate ingredients and develop gluten without oxidizing the dough.
3. Bulk Fermentation – One large mass of properly mixed dough rests. During this time the yeast feeds on the available fermentable sugars and simple starches and produces the byproducts alcohol and carbon dioxide gas.
4. Folding Over – The mass of dough is folded on itself to equalize the temperature, develop gluten, and redistribute food for the yeast.
5. Divide – The dough is scaled into equal weights to ensure even baking. Keep it covered!
6. Pre-Shaping – Regrouping the scaled dough pieces to seal in carbon dioxide gas, and make it easier to put into the final shape.
7. Bench Rest – Allows the gluten to relax to make final shaping easier.
8. Shaping – Molding of dough for consistency, even bake time and attractive presentation.
9. Final Fermentation – Last chance for fermentation and crumb development, and equalizes oven spring.
10. Scoring – Allows the release of gas, increases eye appeal, allows for loaf identification, adds crispness and texture to crust and can be used as a baker’s signature.
11. Baking – Expansion as a result of the activity of the yeast in the form of gasses and alcohol rush toward the surface of the dough causing it to grow in size. This is known as oven spring. Yeast cells die (120°F), the proteins gelatinize and the crust develops.
12. Cooling – As soon as bread is removed from the oven, it should be placed on a vented cooling rack so it doesn’t get soggy.
Knowing this information proves especially useful in understanding how skipping steps, or going out of order in the 12 steps can cause problems with the final products. For example if a baker was to take a piece of dough that was shaped and in the final fermentation step (step nine) and then reshaped it, this action would bring the dough back between the pre-shape and bench rest steps (steps six-seven). Reshaping the dough will de-gas it and the reshaping will also act as an additional fold in the dough. From step four above, we know folding dough will provide new food sources for the yeast and increase fermentation activity, on top of what has already taken place. Although most of the carbon dioxide gas will have been released in reshaping the dough, the taste and scent of the ethyl alcohol byproduct will remain and now intensify. The strength of the gluten will increase and toughen the crumb and the loaf of bread will have to begin proofing all over again. The over worked loaf may proof faster and higher and even achieve better oven spring due to the increased yeast activity, but also due to that activity there will be undesirable smell of alcohol, the taste of fermentation and a tough crumb. Essentially feeding yeast too much is like feeding a goldfish too much. In both cases, the final result will go down the toilet.
Armed with the 12 Steps of Baking, a baker can more easily understand the timely process of bread baking. One of the greatest achievements of baking is to be able to work with a living product, appreciate it and rise (oh yes, intended) to the challenge everyday, knowing that any little change in temperature, humidity, or the mixing of the dough will complicate that day’s bake. That is one of the best parts of baking, a new challenge everyday. Never boring, never the same.
Thursday, April 8, 2010
Yesterday I tasted Summer
I wrote this last summer sitting in my Providence condo, watching the summer sun quickly turn to fall, without stopping. Summer doesn't last long in New England, you embrace every little piece of it you can.
Yesterday, I tasted summer. At last. It is August after all. In running late for work, I decided to make a protein shake for breakfast so I could “eat” in the car. I make my shakes with yogurt, protein powder, a little OJ and fruit. I had blueberries and a peach, excellent combination. My peach had a spot of mold on it. I cut the chunk of mold off, being careful not to cut too deep or too wide into the flesh, knowing the peach I enjoyed the day before from the same pile at the grocery store was delicious. The blueberries were perfect.
I roughly cut half of the peach into the blender, added the rest of the ingredients, pureed and poured it into my portable container then headed down the three flights of stairs to my car. The shake tasted mostly of sweet blueberries with a fleeting hint of peach. It was still delicious to drink because of the bright berry flavor mixed with the orange juice, the creaminess and slight tang of the Greek yogurt was just perceptible. The protein powder was, as always, undetectable. My breakfast over the steering wheel tasted like sweet sunshine.
When I returned home, I removed the other half of the peach from the fridge to let it come to temperature figuring it would be my dessert. After a complicated preparation of dinner (bowl, spoon, cereal box and skim milk), I sat down to one of my very favorite things to eat, having missed my daily dose of cereal at breakfast. My night carried on as usual and I was unaware that the best part of my day was yet to happen. Shortly before climbing into bed, I took my peach out the condensation covered Zip-Loc bag, grabbed a paper towel and dropped down on my couch for a quick snack before succumbing to slumber.
The fuzz on the bottom of the peach was soft on my finger tips as I brought the remaining half of the sunset red peach to my mouth. Being completely room temperature now I could smell the warm sweetness in the air and see the shimmering nectar glistening on the cut flesh. As my teeth sank into the fruit the flavors exploded into my mouth and dripped down my chin. It was juicy peach heaven. It tasted like a childhood summer; pure, all natural, no artificial flavors added summer. It was fresh cut grass, Slip ‘N’ Slides, bare feet and swimming pools. It was sunshine, picnic tables and my Grandpa laughing. It was pure delight. It was long overdue. In my opinion Rhode Island has an overabundance of winter and seems to be very much lacking summer, so I will take it in any way I can! Today, as I type this, it is 60° and raining. Time for another peach.
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